About 125 years ago, several of the distillers around the town of Tequila in the central Mexican state of Jalisco began making a superior form of mezcal. They used the whole heart of a specific variety of the blue agave. Today, only spirits made within the confines of this region can bear the name tequila. If produced elsewhere, it must be called mezcal.

On average, agave plants are about 10 years old before they can be harvested for tequila production. The juicy core of the plant, which resembles a large pineapple, is harvested. Called the pina, the core, which sometimes weighs upwards of 100 pounds, is trimmed, cut into chunks, then baked in huge steam ovens. A sweet juice (aguamiel or honey juice) is extracted by steaming and compressing the pina. The juice is fermented for several days and then distilled at low proof. It is then double distilled to achieve an alcohol content of 55 percent. Some tequilas also undergo a third distillation.

Unlike a grape or grain distillate, such as brandy or whiskey, tequila is virtually free of congeners, so aging is not that important. However, some producers do age tequila in seasoned 50-gallon white oak casks imported from the United States. In aging, tequila becomes golden in color and acquires a pleasant mellowness without altering its inherent taste characteristic. Some tequila producers also add a dose of caramel coloring to the aging tequila to achieve a darker color.

According to law, tequila designated anejo must be aged at least one year in wood. If it is aged from two to four years, in can be called muy anjeno. Many brands with this designation are aged in small oak barrels for at least three years and sometimes up to seven. Some consider anjeo tequila to be like cognac, and they drink it neat from a snifter. Another designation appearing on some tequila labels is reposado, which tranlates literally from the Spanish as reposed, or rested, and means that the tequila has been barrel-aged to acquire its color.

Some mezcal is produced with an agave root worm in the bottle as mark of authenticity. However, only a small percentage of this type of mezcal is actually imported from Mexicao. Ther are no worms in tequila bottles.

Important Facts:

• Tequila is not made from cactus, but from agave; the best tequilas are 100% blue agave.
• In order to be labeled tequila, the product must be produced in a specifically designated area of Mexico, in and around the town of Tequila.
• Unless designated as anejo, muy anejo or reposado, tequilas are unaged.
• Tequila does not have a worm in the bottle. That's mezcal.